Showing posts with label new york fashion week. Show all posts
Showing posts with label new york fashion week. Show all posts

Sunday, February 10, 2013

The Elephant

In the world of street-cred style, Alexander Wang reigns supreme. The stupendously young designer was tapped to take the helm of Balenciaga late last year, a move that signaled to many a shift for the storied brand towards a more youth-oriented, consumer-friendly market. The Parisian house of Balenciaga is known for its cutting-edge silhouettes, even if they're sometimes shapeless (see: 1957 sack dress). Alexander Wang's empire was built one $100 t-shirt at a time.

But that's a sign of the times: The t-shirt has become a staple in American dressing, and when paired with an ankle-length satin column, the look hits 2013 on the nose. It's realistic.

I was a bit surprised to see Alexander Wang's collection for Fall 2013, shown at New York Fashion Week.  It was a mass of leather, fuzzy mittens, and pleats that cut futuristic silhouettes (think androgynous and sharp), but I couldn't help myself from thinking, Yes, but who will actually wear this? Six foot tall, seven stone models aren't flattered by the designs. You'd have to really work to make one of the pieces relatable.

Did I just miss the point? Is fashion an expression, and nothing else? Am I taking creation and art and turning it into something mundane? Or, perhaps, I am asking out loud what everyone who knows, knows: that it is the effort to take something so improbable and turn into an effortless expression that is the currency of design?

The more I see the designs, the more I appreciate them. Wang didn't give us something pretty or expected. His collection challenges our notion of what good design is. Raf Simons did similarly with his debut Dior collection last Spring. He used iridescent neon gossamer where many assumed they'd find black silk. Wang gave us fur helmets instead of moto jackets. He gave us expression instead of a t-shirt.

(photos: Elle)


Saturday, September 15, 2012

Luxe Minimalism

The Olsens are undeniably talented designers--ones capable of embracing the drama of the runway and crafting the clothes that fit the part (The Row), and managing to create a diffusion line of ready to wear that isn't watered down (Elizabeth & James).

Their ready to wear collection for Elizabeth & James was filled with the kinds of separates that you'd return to, day and night, season to season. I especially love the electric blue silk crepe pants, tailored and just above the ankle, paired with a part-Kimono robe in faded black. It's exactly the sort of thing I'd throw on before heading to work and pair with an amazing heel and jewelry for night. Their collection feels both modern and traditionally sophisticated.






Their collection for The Row was rich. Filled with sumptuous silks, wide cuts, and silhouettes that mimicked ancient cultures from around the world (Kimonos, Middle Eastern-style tunics, and South American trims all made appearances), it resonated with understated grace. The woman who wears this look is more interested in the art of dressing, in construction and history, than in broadcasting that she's aware of trends.
 
 
photos: New York 



 
photos: Vogue